Spiaggia: the presidential pick

Fresh off Top Chef Masters, Chef Tony Mantuana recently flew to New York with his team to prepare a meal featuring his masterful seasonal Italian regional cuisine in honor of Spiaggia’s 26th Anniversary. He was joined by Executive Chef Sarah Grueneberg, General Manager Jason Goldsmith and Sous Chefs Chris Marchino. Sommelier Steven Alexander was visiting producers in Italy (including Le Macchiole and Hofstätter) but was present only in the form of the memorable wines he had selected to pair with this extraordinary meal.

Spiaggia, Chicago’s only four star Italian restaurant, opened on Friday April 13th 1984 to much fanfare (in spite of the fact that Chef Manuana he was told that he was never going to make it without meatballs on the menu). Today, it has not only survived but thrived and has been named a “favorite” for both the James Beard Foundation and President Obama. When asked about serving the President and First Lady, Chef Mantuano shared that President Obama (a long-time guest who celebrated his presidential election victory at Spiaggia in 2008) favors the wood grilled scallops that had ironically been taken off the menu in 2008 but were promptly reinstated following a presidential request.

I was enjoying a delicious plate of pasta with sea dates, the most exotic of shellfish, when the inspiration for Spiaggia came to me. My Italian friend Vando D’Angiolo was treating me to a spectacular lunch at Bistrot Ristorante, located right on the sparkling Mediterranean beach in Forti dei Marmi. I was there to buy granite and marble from Vando for a one-million-square-foot mixed-use building I was planning to build on the famed corner of Oak Street and Michigan Avenue in Chicago. As lunch progressed, I fantasized about having a jewel box of an Italian restaurant as the centerpiece of this fabulous new building. The restaurant space would overlook Chicago’s Oak Street Beach on the shores of Lake Michigan at the northernmost point of the Magnificent Mile….As I began construction at the One Magnificent Mile address in 1980, I started my search for a truly great chef who could share my vision and be the creative genius to bring it to life… I decided to give Tony’s food a try and invited him to cook for my wife, Carol, and some of our friends at a dinner party in our home. On that memorable night, I remember the late Gene Siskel giving the meal “two thumbs up,” along with my brother Mark and many of our other good friends. We all knew instantly that I had found the maestro who would orchestrate the vision that was to become Spiaggia. The first step was clear to me: I sent Tony and Cathy, now his wife, off to Italy for a year. They were able to immerse themselves in the culture of Italy, working in the very best restaurants throughout the country, and they carried that experience back to Spiaggia. -Larry Levy Founder and chairman of Levy Restaurants, owner of Spiaggia

Today, Chef and Partner Tony Mantuano is celebrated for his luxurious, world-class Italian cuisine showcasing the finest ingredients presented with simple elegance. As a reflection of his continued commitment to expanding the landscape of Italian fine dining, Mantuano devotes enormous energy to seeking out and importing the finest Italian products yet to be introduced stateside.

There is no better Italian restaurant in America than Spiaggia; Tony Mantuano has always been committed to the truest flavors and finest pairings of wine for his extraordinary cuisine.
-John Mariani, food and travel correspondent for Esquire magazine and author of The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink.

Mantuano continues to redefine the Italian experience while maintaining a devotion to tradition. -Phil Vette, dining critic for Chicago Tribune

Sommelier Steven W. Alexander, who has become a personal friend as well as a respected colleague, sources wines that can best be described as simultaneously remarkable and exceptional. Alexander, who believes firmly that wine should speak of its place and that a well-chosen wine menu will communicate the history of each viticultural region, had handpicked a collection of wines that express the diversity and character of Italian wines today.

From Villa Sparina’s rich toasty Cortese Brut (method Champenoise) that was served at the receptions to Les Crêtes’ alpine, aromatic Petit Arvine to Fontanafredda’s robust and spicy Barolo Chinato (time honored infusion of Barolo with herbs and spices), not only did each wine enhance and balance the dish which it was served, they also manage to reflect both the winemaking traditions and contemporary movements within their respective regions.

This dinner, like the many that we have enjoyed at Spiaggia over the years, captured the passion and energy of Chef Mantuano’s carefully selected team and displayed that unique synergy between inspired cuisine and exquisite wine that defines a great meal.

Menu
San Martino–Style Aleppo Pepper–Braised Pork Belly
Reggio Emilia Parmigiano-Reggiano with Acetaia San Giacomo Gold Balsamic
Pantellerese Caper–Cured Wild Salmon with Squid Ink Breadsticks
Wisconsin Lamb Tartare with Black Truffles and Crispy Sheep’s-Milk Cheese
Villa Sparina Brut

Carpaccio di Aragosta agli Agrumi
Lobster Carpaccio with Citrus, Arugula, and Italian Osetra Caviar
Les Crêtes Petit Arvine Vigne Champorette

Risotto al Riccio di Mare
Acquellero Risotto with Sea Urchin and Mascarpone
COS Ramí

Cervo in Sua Salsiccia con Canerdli
Venison Sausage–Wrapped Broken Arrow Ranch Venison Loin with Montasio Canerdli, Trentino-Style Fennel Kraut, and Alto Adige Speck
Fontanafredda Serralunga d’Alba Barolo

Selezione di Formaggi di Marcelli di Abruzzo
Selected Nuzio Marcelli’s Abruzzese Sheep’s-Milk Cheeses
Almond ‘22 Torbata Beer

Cannelloni dei Frutti Secchi e Noci con Cioccolato
Brik Pastry with Figs, Golden Raisins, Almonds, Pine Nuts, and Chocolate Crémeux
Fontanafredda Barolo Chinato

An evening with Edi Kante

Our last visit to the Carso provided with us the opportunity to visit and taste with Edi Kante. In the mid-1980s, Kante tunneled deep into the limestone hillsides to form the basis of his cellar and then trucked in the earth to construct a vineyard, layer by layer, right over the top.

“For us, stone is life, you can taste hints of salt from the sea and minerals from the stone”

The estate is situated in the hills facing the Gulf of Trieste on the Adriatic Sea, whose brisk breezes allow the grapes to retain superior acidity, making these wines great accompaniments to the local seafood.

We arrived after one of Edi’s friends had just delivered his daily catch. Left to his own resources (his wife was out of town that evening), our host proceeded to spear whole squids and grill them over his open hearth.

The fresh local seafood paired beautifully with his flinty, fragrant, Vitovska- the first of many that we would taste that evening.

The highlight of the comprehensive tasting was his unsdisgorged sparkling Vitovska 2001 that he impressively disgorged with a wine glass. Of the many expressions of Vitovska Edi treated us to, we found the 2002 and 2003 vintages of the Vitovska Selezione particularly impressive.

We then ventured down a 60 feet down a spiral staircase carved into the solid rock, to his spectacular state-of-the-art cellars.

Proving his stance on the inferiority of plastic closures, he opened two bottles of 1997 Sauvignon- one that had been sealed with a plastic cork and one that had been stored in a glass water bottle. Upon uncorking the bottle with the plastic stopper, he took one sniff and proceeded to empty the bottle onto the cellar floor. Amazingly the other bottle was perfect…

The visit was a testament to Kante’s simple goal.

“To produce wines with guts, close to tradition, good with food—not painted ladies designed for display”.

Josko Gravner: “at the base of every Wine, there should be the winemaker’s honesty”

It was a rainy summer’s day, many years ago. In the vineyards he grapes were just beginning to change color. Suddenly the hail arrived. I rushed outside. Dense sheets of hailstones, like tiny needles of ice were sweeping across the hillside. I stood and cursed the weather and the lot of the “cotandino”. Uncle Franc came up quietly behind me and said softly, “Josko, mother nature gives us everything we have. It’s only right that now and then she takes something back.” That day I understood. For me it was the beginning. -Josko Gravner

We recently had the opportunity to visit with the compelling figure of Josko Gravner. To capture in words the essence of this individual, farmer, winemaker, philosopher, artist whose honesty, passion, and commitment has inspired a movement is challenging. Josko’s colleague Filippo Polidori has done so with such eloquence that we prefer to to share it.

Once upon a time there was a child that dreamt of being a farmer. His superheroes were Father Jozef and his Uncle Franc….this could very easily be the beginning of this Man’s story…Josko Gravner.

Josko Gravner is one of the most emblematic and talked-about men in oenology. By many he is seen as a madman, a visionary, and by others as a genius, an artist. By the same token his wines are either loved or loathed.

It would be nice to be able to tell you about Gravner’s world, his philosophy, his approach to life/lives/wine but I would need a book to include everything, without mentioning the skill to write it which I definitely don’t have.

People who have never met Josko in person or who have never had the pleasure of hearing him speak might think that behind the Gravner phenomenon there is a complex marketing and communication strategy..but believe me, everything which has been said is true and I would even add that his real life is even more fascinating than that which myself and others try to portray. Surely, the only way to understand the more intimate and personal aspects of his life is through his Wine.

Josko was born with a great love for the Earth and this might seem banal for the son of farmers, “real” farmers, but this is not always the case. Progress has transformed, and in some cases substituted, farmers with agricultural entrepreneurs.

His father, Jozef, taught him to respect the Earth and to work honestly without ever compromising his beliefs and values. When, as a child, Josko would come back home from school he couldn’t wait to run to the vineyards to spy on his father, to try and understand every single movement of him. At the age of 14 his dream came true and he began working in the family business. It would take him 43 years of experience to reach his current way of making Wine. 43 years! And this is something many people forget. In Josko’s way of working there is no improvisation; time is his strength and the ability to know how to wait, to listen only and always to his instinct and his heart.

43 years of first-hand experience, not passed on from other generations.
43 years of great successes.
43 years of changes, every time he tried a new path, constantly putting himself to the test.

1966 he started working in the father’s wine cellar with large barrels.
1973 he did away with the large barrels and began working with steel.
1980 he did away with steel and began working with barriques/tubs.
1997 he did away with the barriques and went back to large barrels/tubs.
2000 after years of experimenting with amphorae he began working with them and large barrels.

Josko always put his heart into everything; even if the market praised his traditional wines, he would always admit his mistakes, and he would try and explain the limits of this kind of wine making which he abandoned despite his success.

But this is Josko: someone who does not follow trends and is not interested in the market…once again the story repeats itself, from Oslavia with only 35,000 bottles he paved the way for a new way of making wine which many are already following today….

Wine making in amphorae is a difficult path. In a test conducted with 10 people whom we asked to taste the wines, eight of them refused them, whilst two were enthralled by them and instantly adored them. Yet it is thanks to this small percentage of people that the Gravner myth has been able to change the traditional concept of white wine, once again without improvising.

In light of this a journalist wrote: “You will hear many things about Gravner wines. He changed style many times and many people did not understand this. Just like Pablo Picasso was not understood; he could paint like Raffaello and for certain periods of his life he did, but then he invented cubism and he painted Les demoiselles d’Avignon. Josko’s Ribolla….is a work of art in every sense of the word. This led to a new way of conceiving and making wine….”

Today we are used to selling or buying Wines or anything else through the support of an appropriate communication or marketing strategy…and this is necessary for everyone. However, Josko’s Wines cannot only be communicated because the most important thing is that they must be tasted. This is what I have been trying to do for years and in these very complex years what makes me happy is that in the midst of so many people there will always be two people who will allow us to continue making our Wines….Josko’s Wines.

Paolo Vodopivec: the votary of vitovska

In a mere decade, Paolo Vodopivec has earned an enviable international reputation for his distinct expressions of Vitovska, a variety produced by only a handful of producers in the rugged Carso. (The Carso is a plateau located in southeastern Friuli on the Istrian peninsula, just above the town of Trieste, marked by an inhospitable, and rocky terrain). For Vodopivec, Vitovska is the quintessential varietal expression of the region.

The Carso has always been a difficult and tough area, which can test people’s strengths. Harsh, unpleasant, difficult- in a word, true. Even people who do not know this unique terrain, can experience it through Vitovska- “the Carso in a bottle”. What nature has given to the vineyard, the grape gives to the wine. -Paolo Vodopivec

A blacksmith by trade, his great-grandfather had cultivated a few hectares of vineyards and produced a small amount of wine. While in his early twenties, Paolo assumed control of the estate and decided to pursue a dream of winemaking on a grander scale. Subsequently, he selected their best sites, representing 4.5 hectares and 40,000 vines, and replanted employing mass selection and albarello training. The first Vodopivec wine to travel outside the boundaries of the Carso was the 1998 Vitovska (1500 bottles produced). Produced using full berry fermentation and extended maceration and bottled unfiltered eighteen months later, it was tremendously well received and the 1999 vintage (900 bottles produced) marked by a spectacular amber color truly served only to expand the Vodopivec fan club.

Excited by the results, Paolo decided to remove all other grape varieties from the estate in order to focus on Vitovska. Three terraces were created in the new Vitovska vineyards, allowing for excellent ventilation. The terrain was altered by the introduction of large and small rocks, covered with 30 cm of soil from nearby Duino, a city on the coastal part of the region, which provided the rocks with the necessary protective layer. The vines are not manually watered, natural rainfall is the only water source, which is not much in this area; however, the rocky terrain provides natural remedy to droughts.

No pesticides or chemicals are used, instead bird houses of varying sizes have been constructed to surround the vines, depending on the location, allowing only a certain bird to nest in that particular location. The birds maintain the natural equilibrium, they know which insects and parasites should be there and which shouldn’t. Only ambient yeast is employed and the wines continue to be the product of whole berry fermentation without temperature control and extended maceration. Two variations of Vitovska are produced.

In Paolo’s words: Today just like yesterday, Vitovska Classica is created in the present in the same way it was born in the past. First the wine is left to macerate for a fortnight in the vats of Slavonian oak, then it is treated to slow refinement in large barrels. More than two years is needed for the true value of the wine to be revealed in all its uniqueness. Vitovska Amphora expresses itself without hurrying nature’s rhythms. The wine is kept in contact with its grape-skins in buried, terra cotta amphorae, without monitoring the temperatures, for six months. A two years’ rest in casks then brings the wine to maturation, giving it a chance to express the fullness of its taste.

Paolo Vodopivec’s true belief in the terroir and grape variety of his native land and determination to turn this belief into reality has resulted in exceptional wines that have caught the attention of the world.

I vividly remember the first time I tasted a Vodopivec wine. The vintage was 2001 and I nearly fell out of my chair. These phenomenal whites are among the most un-manipulated wines being made in Italy today. They will challenge readers’ perceptions about what white wines can and should be about. For those adventurous enough to give them a try, an immensely rewarding world of new experiences awaits. -Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

This is natural winemaking at its most intense, as the grapes are kept in contact with the skins for six months in amphora pots buried underground. Afterward ,the wine is then aged in large casks for two years; the final result is magnificent. This is a richly textured white with an explosion of pear and melon fruit on the palate and a rich, lengthy finish with bracing acidity. It’s quite a statement and it’s a testament to the philosophy of Paolo Vodopivec and of course, the growing area of Carso. -Tom Hyland, Reflections on Wine

Il Clandestino: Paradise Found in Portonovo

Just down the beach from Da Giachetti, is the phenomenal Il Cladenstino Susci Bar. While sushi is nothing new in Italy, susci was invented by Moreno Cendroni at La Madonnina del Pescatore, the two Michelin starred restaurant that he opened with his wife Mariella in 1984. Known to don a hachimaki (Japanese head band) instead of a traditional toque, Moreno Cedroni is considered one of the most innovative and talented young chef’s in Italy today. The Ancona native, who has studied with Ferran Adrià at El Bulli, is known for his signature style that exalts local seafood and produce by masterfully employing traditional techniques with innovative twists. In spite of its playful origin (based on the phonetic spelling in Italian), the name susci expresses Cedroni’s profound commitment to the ancient craft of sushi as well as the very best seafood and flavors that the region has to offer.

This land and this sea are in my DNA. I always carry them with me, like a sort of identity card of the spirit. -Moreno Cedroni

Instead of soy, wasabi and seaweed, he uses olive oil, balsamic vinegar, herbs, tomatoes, carnaroli rice and even burrata. On our last visit to Il Clandestino, we marveled at the unexpectedly delectable combination of caviar and burrata served on a mackerel topped pizzetta. Two of our favorite dishes are hallmarks of this restaurant that could easily be mistaken for a typical seaside snack shack: capesante con lime e caviale (raw scallops with lime and caviar) and il gioco del tonna (tuna served four ways: raw, cured, marinated in a “porchetta” vinaigrette containing wild fennel, rosemary and garlic, and braised and topped with a tuna sauce). The magnificent menu is complemented by a fantastic wine list that includes wines from many producers that we count as friends including Josko Gravner, Costantino Charrère, Aleš Kristančič, Nicolas Joly, and Angela Velenosi. In short, dining on Moreno Cedroni’s imaginative and inspiring cuisine in the relaxed and airy Il Clandestino simply idyllic.

IL CLANDESTINO| Località Baia di Portonovo, Ancona | +39.071.801422

Da Giachetti: No occaison required

Da Giacchetti, located in Portonovo in the shadows of the majestic Monte Conero (at 572 meters above sea level, it is the highest point along the Adriatic between Veneto and Puglia), is one of of our favorite places to enjoy delicious, simply prepared seafood in a casual and fun environment. While seated on its seaside balcony, savoring fresh-caught piatto di crudità and panoramic views of the Adriatic, it is the perfect place to celebrate the pleasures of life. While this beachfront escape embodies minimalist cuisine and relaxation, its wine list is serious and decadent with over 250 selections that include some of our favorite grower champagnes. During our most recent visit, Selosse Initial & Substance, Vouette & Sorbée Blanc d’Argile, and David Leclapart L’Apotre Extra Brut proved perfect complements to our ethereal, moonlight surroundings and the daily celebration of lifestyle that occurs here!

DA GIACCHETTI | Via Portonovo 171 (Loc. Portonovo), Portonovo, +39 071 801 384

The spirit of varnelli

On our most recent trip to Italy, we paid a visit to Varnelli, the artisanal distillery whose anisette defines café correto in the Marche. The hour and half long drive drive from Ancona allowed us to take in the beautiful scenery of the Central Apennines including the scenic vistas, glacial valleys, and meadows dotted with pristine lakes and mountain streams that comprise the Sibillini Mountains National Park. We arrived in the “city” of Muccia (population 925), and searched for the “industrial district” only to discover that it consisted of the town’s two commercial buildings- one of which is Varnelli’s elegant and state-the-art headquarters.

The Varnelli story begins with founder Girolamo Varnelli who studied the medicinal plants of his homeland in the heart of the Sibillini Mountains and used them to develop many recipes for distillates and bitters, including Amaro Sibilla (which at the time was valued for its role as an antimalarial and antipyretic drug for its high content of Gentiana Lutea and China Calyssaia). His son Antonio Varnelli proceeded to develop a unique recipe for anisette and create Varnelli which quickly became the hallmark of the Varnelli Distillery and brought fame to the family name.

Since its founding in 1868 by Girolamo Varnelli, the distillery has been constantly managed by the Varnelli family who has strictly followed the same secret recipes, using native herbs, plants, and flavors and traditional production practices. Today four women who comprise its fourth generation: Elda, Gigliola Simonetta, Mari Donatella and Orietta Maria head the company and graciously hosted us.

Our tour of the distillery began with where the spirits are decocted with local herbs, spices, and honeys, over wood-burning fireplace. From the grinding of the ingredients with a mortar and pestle to the fueling of the fire with logs, the entire production process is executed by hand as it has been for over a century. In contrast, our next stop was the immaculate storage and bottling facilitates that benefit from all that modern technology and hygienic practices have to offer.

This seamless integration of tradition and progress defines the Varnelli philosophy. Without deviating from their familial legacy of dedication to craft and local ingredients, they have added innovative products and adopted savvy marketing strategies that have allowed this boutique distillery that produces a mere 5,000 bottles a year to earn worldwide acclaim.

Proponents of a spirits as an important component in not only cocktails, but cuisine and quality of life, they have recently published “Varnelli: Anice da Gustare” a collection of recipes and menus developed by prominent chefs and mixologists that feature Varnelli products in every aspect of a meal.

At the close of our visit, we sampled an exciting array of Varnelli spirits and cocktails and particularly enjoyed the delightful blend of Sprite and Amaro Tonica- a simple and delicious cocktail that we plan to mix up regularly at home!

A Cork and A Cauldron: New Discoveries and Old Favorites in Bordeaux

A recent visit to Château Teyssier in St Emilion lead to another great culinary find. In spite of its humble roots and namesake of an eighth century hermit, the village of St Emilion has acquired international celebrity status due to the glorious Grand Gru vineyard sites and exalted wines that bear its name. While exploring this medieval hamlet, we stumbled across the charming and inviting Le Bouchon, nestled in the shadows of a grand and imposing monolithic church. Enamored, we soon found ourselves seated on its steps for an impromptu aperitif.

While taking in the majesty at the heart of this celebrated appellation, we enjoyed bottle of 1996 Phillipponat Clos de Goisses, whose notes of brioche made it a perfect pairing with the local foie gras.

After our unexpected but immensely pleasurable detour, we headed to Bordeaux for a traditional dinner with out friend Marco Fantinel; and where better for that than La Tupiña, revered worldwide for both its delicious food and rustic atmosphere! While it may no longer be a secret to the tourists, year after year we return for chef Jean-Paul Xiradakis’s authentic southwestern cuisine featuring local seasonal ingredients.

“For me, cuisine is not an art. I started La Tupiña back in 1968 to offer the food my mother and grandmother cooked when I was a child. What I do, anyone could do—it’s nothing refined and not very fancy. But this is the way we eat in the countryside. It’s de la bonne bouffe—’good grub’.” -Jean-Paul Xiradakis

For the uninitiated, the name refers to the traditional pot-bellied cooking vessel that hangs over the central hearth of this singular restaurant that specializes in playing with fire without ever getting burned. While duck is is king at La Tupiña (as elsewhere in region, with each part celebrated in local dishes from foie gras, magret, casserole or stew), on this evening we opted for the famous cotes de boeuf with frites roasted golden in duck fat. We poured over the impressive wine list and its many collector pieces to accompany our meal.

While tempted by the remarkable Armagnac list which bears over seventy references of the best eaux-de-vie of the region, after dinner we opted to end this indulgent evening in the heart of France with another old favorite: a glass of J.M Rhum Agricole VSOP, AOC Martinique.

LE BOUCHON | 3 Place Marché, Saint Emilion
LA TUPIÑA | 6 Rue Porte de la Monnaie, Bordeaux

La Croisette and La Coulée de Serrant: A Heavenly Match Made in the Loire

Our recent trip in France took us to Savennieres for a visit with Nicolas Joly on the day following the summer solstice- a very important day of the year for this celebrated guru of biodynamy.

The summer solstice is a very important day for a vine. The vine is waiting for sun to land on earth. This is what happens at the summer solstice. It withholds its flowering process for the time when the sun lands on earth. The vines flowering closest to the solstice produce the best wines. -Nicolas Joly

After a tour of the stunning La Coulée de Serrant in the midsummer twilight, we made our way for what would become an exciting culinary discovery. Nestled in a corner facing the striking Loire river and its sandy banks, La Croisette could be easily be mistaken for a fishing cabin if it was not for the mouthwatering flavors filling the air and the beautiful garden. La Croisette is a new venture from the intrepid Isabelle and J-Paul Feuvray whose vast culinary passions lead to a diverse array of experiences that include a stint in Texas. They opened their first Tex Mex restaurants in the 1980s followed by a steakhouse in the 1990s. Returning to their roots, they created this open air barbecue on the tiny island of Behuard in 2004. While there, we enjoyed river fish and some of the most delicious barbecued ribs that we have ever tasted!

Joined by Nicolas Joly, another passionate explorer who ultimate decided to return to his roots (in his case literally), and his remarkable 1989 and 2004 vintages of La Coulée de Serrant the pairing was complete. As our meal ended and the sun finally made its descent, La Croisette proved the perfect venue in which to savor a magical evening in an enchanted region over a cuban cigar and great conversation.

La Croisette | Rue de La Boire, Béhuard

Gianfranco Soldera: “From difficult vintages, the best satisfaction…”

Gianfranco Soldera has risen to the status of a legend, both for his exquisite Brunello and his strong opinions. A strict traditionalist and firm believer in the importance of terroir, Soldera has turned Casse Basse di Gianfranco Soldera into a haven where landscape, vineyards, cellar, and his wife Graziella’s magnificent rose garden are magnificently integrated.

The wine goes from the land to the glass without too much interference. It is the grapes that tell you when they’re ready, whereas the wine tells you when it wants to be bottled. Striving for quality: that’s the point. -Gianfranco Soldera

Soldera ferments his wines in open-topped, 150-hectoliter wood vats, using indigenous yeasts and no temperature control. The natural fermentation lasts more than 30 days, and pump-overs are done manually. The wines are aged in large barrels significantly longer the required two years- in his words “whatever the wine needs.” Since its inception, Case Basse di Gianfranco Soldera has proudly worked with leading research institutions and allowed them access to their natural laboratory of vines, cellar, and ecosystem, underscoring Soldera’s commitment to elevating the territory of Montalcino and the craft of winemaking.

His 6650 bottles of 2002 Brunello di Montalcino, the current vintage, are a testament to the fact that fantastic wine can be obtained in the most challenging vintages. During its 65 months of maturation in large oaks barrel, everyone who tasted it was struck by its excellence.

In the words of our good friend Sergio Esposito, owner of Italian Wine Merchants: “it’s not just a good Brunello for a bad year- it’s a great Brunello… Soldera has never made a poor wine in his life, [and may be] the best winemaker in all of Italy, if not in all the world.”

Having been described a possessing paternal instinct regarding his wine, Gianfranco Soldera opts some years against bottling all of his wines as Brunello. This is what happened when he made the celebrated 1979 Rosso- one of the most revered and coveted Italian wines. Similarly in 2005, Soldera made Pegasos when the wine from one of his barrels showed an early readiness for bottling, following natural fermentation via native yeasts and 32 months maturation in large oak barrels. The label, designed by Piero Leddi, depicts the mythical winged horse of the same name. Many have compared the Pegasos 2005 to the 1979 Rosso including the Soldera family: they believe that Pegasos, which benefits from 33 years older and lower yield vines as well as nine added months in the barrel is the superior of the two.

Vletter en den Haan, the renowned Lilly breeder, was so impressed the wines that in 1998 they chose to name a variety of the flower Soldera to evoke its exceptional character and quality.